Roco Kliff Kelly Kaz

  • Welcome to the agility page.  Agility is a fun sport that requires the dog to complete a course of various obstacles in the fastest time, and you as the handler have to direct them.

  • To compete your dog must be 18 months old.  It is recommended that some larger breeds do not jump until 24 months old.  Your dog will need some basic obedience (reliable recall) before beginning to train for Agility and also be physically fit. 

  • It is recommended by Nelson Dog Training Club to attend a basic obedience class prior to agility. 

  • Most introductory agility classes are held Saturday mornings for one hour.  Some maybe available during the week in the evenings depending on the instructor. There is a Monday night class for dogs/handlers that have passed the Introductory class and Senior training is held at the same time..

  • Please remember that instructors are volunteers with their own family/work commitments.

 

Check out Sharky's wonderful journey as he learns all the skills for Agility.  Sharky and Fiona feature every month in the New Zealand Kennel Gazette.

Go to Gallery to see more pics.

 

 

 

CONTACTS FOR DUMMIES
2 ON 2 OFF - This means the dog is required to stop at the end of the contact zone with two back feet on the contact and two front feet on the grass.  This is one of the more popular methods.  I chose this one with Kliff due to his speed (needed somewhere to catch up) and also to instil some form of control over him on the Agility course (reminds him that he has a partner out there too!!!). 
1.  I taught this initially by teaching Kliff to nose touch onto a target.  Then I played with him around the bottom of the contact zone until he accidentally touched it with his foot, I clicked and treated.  Because Kliff has been taught in this way he began to offer various behaviours and I upped the criteria until he was reliably touching the contact with one back foot. 
2.  I then upped the criteria to two back feet.  I placed the target at the end, so then he was jumping onto the contact area and nose touching his target. 
3.  Once this is consistent we were able to start to back chain the dog walk.  I started him halfway down the off ramp, so that he drove down to the contact area.  After lots of successful repetitions the dog walk can be back chained right from the beginning in gradual pieces.
4.  Key Points - Kliff does not leave the contact until he gets his release word.  I did not initially want him to go into a down crouch position for contacts but this is what he kept offering and obviously felt most comfortable with - be prepared to negotiate!!!  Kliff is allowed to be wrong when offering behaviours.  Ignore what you do not want and click/treat what you do want.  If the dog is becoming frustrated and can't get it right, you have gone too fast.  Go back a step.  There are various different ways to teach this method.  Every dog is different, adjust to what suits your dog.
 
Kliffy dives to the contact area Gets his marker word or click And we are off